Tuesday, August 28, 2007

First choice: Lisboa

Lisbon started off my sabbatical in February and is now my first stop abroad. Instead of taking the a night train (read Pascal Mercier's beautiful novel!), I let Swiss pilot Ernst Rufener (a name sake of my highly respected and influential high school math teacher), fly me past Mont Blanc and over cloud-covered France and Spain to Lisbon, where the 25th April Bridge sits softly on a thin layer of fog that covers the Tejo. The picture is in my head only, as the camera was stowed away in the overhead locker... When we leave the plane, the young lady next to me says "e gueti Zyt" (have a good time), though we did not talk before, only laugh together at the impossibility to open the new sandwich bags of Swiss, and she does not know how meaningful her wish is.

Indeed, the days in this great city turn out wonderful, benefiting from beautiful late summer weather. Paulo takes me to the beaches south of the Tejo and cooks a superb dinner for us (his partner Pedro, plus Daniele, a friend): Watermelon with fresh cheese, ginger, and Oreo cookie crumble, then a huge slab of fresh salmon in Port wine sauce. Delicious, especially with a fine Drouro white wine, and enjoyable conversation and music.



The following day, Fernando and I lunch at the docks, directly under the rumbling bridge, exchanging thoughts on science and life, as usual, but taking some new directions. The afternoon passes quickly with my first blogging attempts, a pot of tea, and Pastel de Belem, in that old fashioned café, Pastelaria S. Rogue, where the owner sits at the entrance in front of the cashier registry, almost like Papa Schober used to do in his café in Zurich.



After a long stroll from Santa Catharina to Al Fama and back through Baixa, taking lots of pictures in the beautiful evening light, the last dinner is simply a glass of Alentejo wine with Portuguese cheeses, in a new wine bar in the Bairro Alto. What a coincidence: Since my former favorite restaurant down the road seems to have different owners and food of lesser quality, I wander around, find the wine bar, and entering it, I recognize the owner as the former one from that other restaurant. We spend a pleasant evening chatting, while he offers some Port to go with the cheese. This is how I had imagined our own wine bar to be, but it takes a different latitude to create such an atmosphere.

Almost missing my own party

Day 2, in Zurich, was to end with Tapas and wine in La Bodega, three minutes from where I grew up. Wrapping up the chalet in the morning, with some of our guests who had spent the night there helping to eat all left-overs (yes, including the eggs of the cake not baked), and then driving to Zurich takes longer than planned. But we manage, only an hour late, to meet Herbert with Sibylle and sons Lukas and Andreas, Ueli with Ulli, and Benoît with Doris, for a good Paella and excellent Ribera del Duero at the Bodega's upper floor. Who said "typical Werner"?

A cheesy start ?

Day 1, August 24, made for a great start. Though some could not make it on a Friday afternoon to our chalet at 2000m, above Evolène, a wonderful group of friends and family joined Carlos and me for Assiette Valaisanne, Raclette, Humagne Blanche and Cornalin: My mom Trudi and her sister Hanni, cousin Anita, Peter and Eliette, Mischa and Stephanie, Samuel, Raymonde, Nicole, and their friends from the Vieux Mazot ("mais c'est le paradis ici!").

Watching Dent Blanche and Matterhorn, we slowly chewed on cheese and stories from 2 to 8pm, followed by various tartes aux fruits. The lights on the glaciers at sun set were something special this day - changing from orange to purple to blue. See some pictures from the day.

If all is well that starts well, this promises to become a great tour - and maybe also great next 50 years!

Blog around the world


Fifty seems like an appropriate age to start blogging... I will try to keep it simple and short, so here we go with my first attempt:

On my 50th birthday, August 24, 2007, I started on a 50 day trip around the world to visit 50 friends. My partner Carlos had suggested, given my bohemian life style, that something like this would make more sense than a bigger party at a single location. When I found out that the birthday is exactly 50 days before the end of the summer break, the idea seemed perfect. Btw, Carlos will join me for two thirds of the trip, starting at San Francisco on September 9. Why there? See www.17sep01.de.

In this blog, you will find some snippets and pictures from our travels and encounters. More to come, as soon as I have figured out how to link fotos...

Greetings from a beautifully old-fashioned café in Lisbon (with wi-fi from the neighborhood)
Werner